WALK THROUGH HISTORY IN JERUSALEM

Dome of the Rock in jerusalem

The spiritual energy of the holy city of Jerusalem, therapeutic stillness of the Dead Sea, magnificent beauty of Galilee’s green hills and valleys, impressive archaeological sites and Roman ruins, traditional and new-age Israeli cuisine, religious and cultural devotion of the Muslims, Christians and Jews and the country’s compelling politics – it all leaves a lasting impact on different facets of your life.

A land of diversities, Israel guarantees an experience of a lifetime through the rapid shift in landscapes, weather, behavioural patterns and religious sentiments of people. In less than three hours, you can be transported from a primeval desertscape to aquamarine waters of the mediterranean coast.

man selling pickled olives
A man selling pickled olives at Mahane Yehuda market in Jerusalem

But what you see is only half the story. What you hear from the locals is what truly makes for the enriching other half. Whether it’s your friendly tour guide, roadside falafel seller, a civilian with a pistol, smiling owner of a no-frills hummus joint or just another guard at a security check point, don’t miss out on an opportunity to interact and strike deep, meaningful conversations with the locals. Be open to telling them a bit about your culture before inquiring about theirs. It’s easy and worthwhile to make friends in Israel!

JERUSALEM – A CITY THAT MOVES YOU      

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A piece of living history, Jerusalem is the world’s foremost pilgrimage destination and a city that is sacred to half the human race. One of the most disputed places in the Middle East, it is sacred to Jews, Christians and Muslims. For Jews, the imposing Western Wall is the last remnant of the ancient Second Temple complex. For Christians, Jerusalem is that city that saw the death, burial, and resurrection of Jesus of Nazareth while muslims believe that masjid al-aqsa is the place from which Muhammad ascended to Heaven for his meeting with God.

Home to primary sites of these great monotheistic religions, Jerusalem’s Old City is truly magical.

Orthodox Jews walking down the streets of Jerusalem

Something that catches your eye instantly is the clothing of orthodox Jews. Even during the high summer season, you notice well-dressed, bearded men sauntering in black suits and hats! At the same time, the modern part, with its thriving café, bar and restaurant scene is a different world altogether!

Let your trip through the Old City begin at Jaffa Gate while taking notice of its distinctive right-angle to the 16th-century Ottoman walls. After a short saunter down David Street, enter the Christian quarter, towards the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It is here that you find pilgrims kneeling at the Stone of Unction, on which Jesus’s body is said to have been prepared for burial. At the busy and vibrant Muslim Quarter, sample traditional Arabic coffee at one of the souk cafes before wending your way to the Western (or Wailing) Wall, one of the holiest sites in Jusaism. Known as the Kotel in Hebrew, the wall is the closest site at which Jews can pray to where they believe the Jewish Temple stood 2,000 years ago.

Woman praying at the Western wall in Israel

Feel free to write your prayer on a piece of paper and slide it into one of the cracks on the wall!

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If you’re lucky enough, you might witness a Bar Mitzvah celebration which is a Jewish coming of age ritual.

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Dome of the Rock

Walk a little further to reach the maginificent Temple Mount; it’s undisturbed wide expanse is a counterpoint to the bustle of the Old City streets. Unless you’re Muslim, you cannot enter the Dome of the Rock but you can definitely wander around the plaza to appreciate intricate Islamic architecture with its perfect proportions, tile-encrusted exterior walls and glittering gold roof.

Armenian Ceramic Centre in Jerusalem
Drop in at Armenian Ceramic Centre for a look at handpainted ceramic art

The Armenian Quarter’s 1500 residents are the only remaining representatives of a community that has been in Jerusalem for nearly two millennia. Visitors can join them for a service in the 12th-century St James’ (Jacques’) Cathedral, and afterwards head to the Citadel (Tower of David) at Jaffa Gate, which is now home to the impressive Museum of the History of Jerusalem.

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Tip: Bring home some gorgeous, hand-painted ceramic plates from Armenian Ceramic Centre in the Christian Quarter of Jerusalem.

The walled city of Jerusalem

If you thought the Old City is all about shrines, you’re wrong! Its cobblestone alleyways, arches, hidden courtyards bring you back in time.

There are little markets in every quarter where you can find vendors selling everything from trinkets, incense sticks, ceramics, magnets, embroidered garments, and cushion covers to pomegranates, prickly pears, Arabic sweets and aromatic spices.

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Tip: If you’re in Jerusalem for a short time, go around the city on a segway! Guided segway tours are not only a fun way to explore the walled capital city but also very informative as you’re accompanied by a local who narrates interesting tales on way.

THE SOUL OF A CITY LIES IN ITS FOOD

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Geography has a large influence on Israeli cuisine which is a delectable blend of recipes from North Africa (Morocco, Libya, Tunisia, and Algeria), its Middle Eastern neighbors (Lebanon, Yemen, and Iraq), as well as the Mediterranean countries, along with Eastern Europe and Russia.

Among other things that have shaped the cuisine are Jewish dietary laws, holidays and festivals as well as the native ingredients of the land.

No wonder chickpea specialities like hummus, pickled olives, Arabic coffee and freshly-squeezed pomogranate juice are some of the items that make an appearance throughout the country!

Also lunch, rather than dinner, is the focal meal of the day in Israel! Most importantly, all the food is high on health quotient! That means, if you eat in moderation (which is rather tough), you may not come back with uncomfortably tight jeans or a bulging tummy! While most dishes consist of veggies, meat lovers have their own share of finger-licking specialities. Moreover, the variety of food served here is such that even a committed non-vegetarian would happily tuck into all the vegetarian dishes. After all, Israel is listed as one of the top vegetarian-friendly destinations in the world!

Mahane Yehuda Market
Mahane Yehuda Market

Consider starting your tasting tour in Jerusalem at the most famous Mahane Yehuda market. More often known as The Shuk, this is where the whole of Jersusalem comes together!

With more than 250 stalls and lots of daytime action, it is at its busiest best on Thursdays and Fridays when Israelis shop for Shabbat.

The market has two major areas – the open-air market jam-packed with local produce which includes everything from fruits, vegetables, freshly-baked bread, cookies and spices to poppy-seed pastries and extra large green and black olives, and the covered market with its bylanes that are home to some interesting cafes, bakeries and food joints that sell pancakes, juices, pizzas and more. Alternatively, they make for good WiFi-enabled lounging spots.

Halva
Don’t forget to sample some delicious halvah!

Don’t just photograph edibles and people at the shuk, sample some dried pineapple slices and strawberries or pack a box of marbeled halvah; a sweetmeat made of sesame oil and nuts. Another must buy is Pitzuchim – trail mix of all sorts of nuts, roasted seeds and dried berries. If you’re visiting the market during the day, make sure to head here again on one of the nights. Post sunset, it transforms into a hip street full of restaurant and bars. A great spot for meeting some tourists over a glass of craft beer and foot-stomping Israeli music! It’s also worth walking around early morning before the stalls open, to check out the colorful street art by well known international and local artists.

If you’re invited by a local for Sabbath dinner, never miss the opportunity to experience the authentic traditional meal.

The Jewish Day of Rest, Shabbat in Hebrew, begins on Friday at sundown and ends on Saturday at sundown. A big part of Shabbath is the relishing of three Shabbath meals, mainly the first two — Friday night dinner and Shabbat lunch. At the Friday night dinner, Jewish families transition from their everyday lives to a more spiritual time. Tables are set with white tablecloths, gorgeous cutlery as well as candles, wine, and challah loaves that are needed to perform Sabbath religious rituals.

MUST VISIT

hall of names
Hall of Names

Set on the slopes of the Mount of Remembrance on the edge of Jerusalem, Yad Vashem which means ‘A Memorial and a Name’ is a powerful memorial to the six million Jews killed in the Holocaust. It is shaped as a prism penetrating the mountain and consists of galleries with spine-chilling historical displays which include photographs, films, documents, letters, works of art, and personal items found in the camps and ghettos during the Holocaust. Among the highlights are Hall of Names, where the personal details of millions of victims are recorded and the Children’s Memorial, a dimly lit underground cavern containing a solitary flame reflected infinitely by hundreds of mirrors.

FACT SHEET

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Getting there:

El Al flies directly from Mumbai to Ben Gurion International airport, located in the centre of the country, just off the highway connecting Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Plus point? The airline offers an early start to your Israel experience. Flight duration is around eight hours.

Getting around:

Renting a car and driving yourself, at least for a part of the trip, is the best way to see Israel. In Jerusalem, nothing is very far apart. Most road signs are in English as well as Hebrew and Arabic, and it is fairly easy to get around. Also, bus service is quite extensive, inexpensive, and a good option for intercity travel.

Where to stay:

Housed in a beautifully-restored 19th-century villa, the boutique hotel Villa Brown makes for a great stay option. With deep, warm hues, soft textiles and towering arched doorways, its design is a mix of Neoclassical, Ottoman styles and contemporary influences, bringing you the nostalgic opulence of the city’s colonial era. Make sure to spend an evening at its chic underground “Cave Bar”. Or consider spending a few nights at Prima Royale quietly tucked away between the residential streets of the city’s elegant Talbiya neighborhood. Inspired by the artists, writers, poets, and musicians of the city, the hotel is not very far from the significant sites and cultural attractions.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

> Security checks are rigorous at Ben Gurion airport. Being singled out for an in-depth luggage search is very common.

> The domestic currency is Israeli New Shekel. 1 Israeli New Shekel = 19.67 Indian ruppees

> Workdays are Sundays through Thursday and the weekend is Friday and Saturday.

> All public offices and most stores in Israel are closed on Shabbat. In most cities, public transportation (trains and buses) does not operate.

> Israel’s national language is modern Hebrew. English is the main language for foreign communication.

> Dress modestly when visiting holy sites. Long trousers for men; covered head, shoulders and legs for women. Generally, a headscarf or shawl is useful to meet modest dress requirements in religious buildings.

> No entry/ exit stamp will be on travellers’ passports. Entry/ Exit slips will be provided at immigration after the passport has been scanned. The slips must be retained until your final departure from Israel.

WORDS TO HELP YOU TRAVEL IN ISRAEL!

Shalom – Hello! / Goodbye
Sh’mi – My name is
Naim meod – Nice to meet you
Bevakasha – You’re welcome!
Toda raba – Thank you very much!
Kah Smolla – Take left
Kah Yamina – Take right
Yashar – Straight
Kama ze? – How much is this?
Halav – Milk
Sukar – Sugar

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